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PETTIBONE. WELLS & CO.. CHICAGO. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the years 1882, '84 and "88, by Madame W'alkie. 
in the Office of Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



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SPECIAL NOTICE. 



I have taught hundreds of dressmakers and ladies who have 
previously used all the leading tailor squares and systems of cut- 
ting; but have gladly laid them aside after learning the Worth 
Tailor System. 

I have yet to hear of the first instance where this system of 
cutting has been discarded for any other. 

Respectfully, 

Madame Walkie. 



PREFACE. 



My object is to place before the public, and dressmakers in particular, 
a system of cutting that is practical, reliable and stylish, easy to handle and 
that can be learned in a day by any lady of intelligence, as every division and 
calculation is made for the learner by the graduated scales used. 

Ladies can do the drafting in less than one-third of the time used by 
other systems. 

All drafts can be made on the lining, thereby saving much time and 
trouble. 

We can teach in one day what it takes weeks to learn by any other 
tailor system. 

The Sleeve Form can be purchased separately, and any one can use it 
who can read the directions. 



(i) 



9, 



REMARKS. 



A Great Want Met. 



Kg 



<a,i 



I he celebrated Worth Tailor System follows all fashions and fits all forms. 



It excels all other tailor systems for many reasons. It is the latest 
p* improved method of cutting by square rule, therefore has many advan- 
tages over all the old so called squares and charts. 

The Worth Tailor System is simple, exact, and adapted to every style 
of garment. This system reduces the art of drafting to a science, giving better 
proportions, more graceful curves and shapes, and produces a more perfect 
fitting garment than any other method in use. A test is the surest way to 
prove what has already been established wherever the Worth System has been 
used. Its merits are so many that they can only become wholly known by a 
thorough trial, but it is enough to insure its popularity and success to say that 
this tailor system possesses three important requirements to dressmakers, and 
every lady in the land who does her own dress and cloak making. 

First, by the use of a graduated scale of measures, upon which all 
mathematical divisions and measurements are made, from a child to a woman's 
size, giving exact divisions and proportions to any sized person you may wish 
to cut for, doing away with all fractions and subtracting, which many object 
to, because by their use many mistakes are made. 

Second, because by the use of the letters and figures on the scale, which 
give the required distances or spaces, which are not inches or parts of inches. 
All calculations are made for the learner, consequently it does not take one- 
third of the time and so simplifies the art of drafting that a child ten years of 
age can understand it. 

The Third, and one of the essential advantages is: The Worth System 
can be learned in a very short time from the printed instructions in this book 
when it is not convenient to receive them verbally and by so doing you can 
save $7.00 on the cost of the system which is quite an object to many. 

I respectfully invite all persons interested in drafting and cutting gar- 
ments to call and make the most exacting experiments under my personal 
direction. I desire you should believe nothing your own experience does not 
orroborate. 



3 

I believe this is the only system now in use giving a perfect sleeve form. 
I do not draft sleeves the old way by taking the measures and then subtracting 
the required width of the under part from the upper and guessing at the curves 
which must be used, but have a sleeve form which if the measures are carefully 
taken according to the instructions given, will draft a sleeve to fit any arm 
perfectly. This sleeve form has only been in use during the past year, there- 
fore has many advantages over all the old methods of cutting that troublesome 
part of a garment, the sleeve. 

We also teach a perfect skirt draft. 

I have been active in this line of business for the last twenty-five years, 
having held the position of forewoman and cutter and fitter in several of the 
large dry goods houses east and west, hence the practical rules and directions 
given in this work are all deducted from actual practice; they are sanctioned 
by the best modern authorities; they have been proven correct in practice and 
to-day are adopted by the best cutters and dressmakers in the world. 



Directions For Measures and How To Take Them. 



Ladies using this system will please bear in mind that the drafts are 
made from actual measurement, hence the necessity of taking the measures 
correctly. 

First see that the person is properly dressed with good corsets and 
dress that defines the form. In case extra fullness is required, supply it before 
taking the measures. 

To define the waist line, take a narrow tape or cord, tie or pin it around 
so it will lay at the smallest part of the waist, therefore the natural waist line. 
This gives you a level waist line from which to base the measures. 



Measures for Drafting hy Worth's Tailor System. 



SLEEVE MEASURES. 

Length from shoulder to elbow. 

Then to wrist. 

Arm's eye. 

Largest part of arm. 

Elbow. 

Wrist. 



Bust. 

Length of back. 

Under arm. 

Shoulder. 

Chest. 

Width of back. 

Waist. 

Neck. 

Hip. 

First. Take bust measure. Stand in front of the person being meas- 
ured, carry the tape line across the back close under the arms and bring around 
over the fullest part of the bust. Take a snug measure. 

Second. Measure from the back of neck down to the waist line for 
length of back. 

Third. Place the tape line close up under the arm and measure down 
to the waist line for the under arm measure. 

The size of the arm's eye depends upon this measure, therefore it should 

be carefully taken. 

Fourth. Length of shoulder. Measure from the neck to point of 

shoulder. 



Fifth. Chest measure. From arm to arm about two inches and a half 
below point of shoulder. 

Sixth. Width of back. From arm to arm over shoulder blades about 
three inches below point of shoulder. 

Seventh. Waist measure. Taken snug around the smallest part of 
waist. 

Eighth. Neck measure. The size of the collar worn. 

Ninth. Hip measure. Place the tape line comfortably snug around 
the hips about six inches below the waist line. 

These are all the measures used in drafting the waist. 

The directions for drafting the sleeve and skirt measures will be found 
accompanying the Diagrams for each. 






6 



Diagram No. 1. 





Line 2, 

TJiese lines represent the Tailor 
square measurement of cutting 
before commencing to put in the 
curves. The distances given on 
the scales used saves all mathe- 
matical calculations. 

Line 5. 


- 




• 

i 

Line 4. 


5 in. spaee. 

This space is left 
for hip springs 
below the waist 
line. 

Waist Line, 


Line 10. 




Line 9. 







Bust 


35 


Chest 


Length of back 


15^ 


Width of back- 


Under arm 


rA 


Waist 


Length of Shoulder 


5 


Neck - 



7 

Instructions How to Draft by the Worth Tailor 

System. 

It is best to draft on paper until familiar with the use of the system. 
For convenience the paper ought to be 24 by 36 inches. 

The measures used for the first Diagram are medium measures. 

- 13 

- 24 
13 

The first diagram is of straight lines for front and under arm form, 
showing how to draft the foundation before putting in the curves. 

Commence by drafting the first or base line 2^ inches from the edge of 
paper, the length of waist required for front waist line. 

Draw Line 2 one inch from left hand edge of paper for top waist line. 

Now take scale indicating bust measure, "the length of this scale is one- 
fourth of the bust measure." 

Measure out the exact length of the scale from Line 1 on Line 2 and 
dot, also at lower end of Line 1 and dot. Draw Line 3 by dots just made, 
parallel with Line 1, the length of waist required. 

Now measure down from Line 2 on Lines 1 and 3, the length of back 
measure and dot. Draw Line 4 by dots just made, for level waist line. 

Now measure up from Line 4 on Lines 1 and 3 the length of under arm 
measure and dot for Line 5 or under arm line. 

These five lines give the exact length and breadth of one-half the front 
of waist. 

Now to put in the curves and other lines as seen in second or finished 
diagram. 

In order to understand and learn this without a teacher the directions 
must be followed implicitly. Wherever they direct the learner to make a dot 
or place a certain part of the rule do so and the result will be correct. 

Read the directions on both square and curved rule and you will 
just what portion of the rule to use for any curve or line you wish to draw as 
they are plainly marked. 



Diagram No. 2. 




9 



Directions for Diagram Ho. 2. 



To put in the first curve take scale measure from Line 2 down on Line 
1 to C on scale for front of neck. 

Now measure out on Line 2 from Line 1 to C on scale for shoulder point 
of neck. Take curved rule and draw neck curve from dots just made by plac- 
ing the size of neck on dot on Line 1. 

Measure from Line 2 on Line 3 to A on scale for front shoulder slope. 
Draw shoulder line with shoulder line on curved rule by placing E at shoulder 
point of neck on Line 2 and carrying rule down to slope of shoulder on Line 
3. Turn the rule face down for drawing front shoulder. Now measure length 
of shoulder on line just drawn from shoulder point of neck and dot. 

Now take scale and measure up from Line 5 on Lines 1 and 3 to A on 
scale and dot for Line 6 or chest line. Take square rule and draw Line 6 by 
dots just made. Now measure half of chest measure on Line 6 from Line 1 
and dot for breadth of chest. Now measure in on Line 5 from Line 3 to 1 on 
scale and dot. Take front arm's eye form on curved rule, place it so it will 
touch at the same time length of shoulder, breadth of chest on Line 6 and dot 
just made on Line 5, and draw front arm's eye curve. 

Take scale and measure down from Line 5 on Line 1 to 5 on scale and 
dot. Now 7 measure down from Line 5 on Line 3 to 3 on scale and dot. Take 
square rule and draw Line 7 by dots just made, for top dart line. Take scale, 
measure down from Line 4 on Line 1 to A on scale and dot. Now take curved 
side on square rule", place figure 5 at the intersection of Lines 3 and 4, carry 
rule across to dot just made on Line 1, and draw Line 8 or lower waist line. 
Now measure 7 inches down from Line 4 on Lines 1 and 3 and dot. Take 
square rule and draw Line 9 by clots just made, for bottom line of waist. Take 
scale, measure in on Line 8 from Line 1 to 2 on scale for front curve of first 
dart. Measure from this dot to 2 on scale again for width of first dart at waist. 

Measure from last dot, from I to 2 on scale, for space between 
darts. Measure to 2 on scale again for width of second dart. Then mark- 
exact center of each dart on Line 8. Take square rule, place square end of 
rule on Line 9, carry straight edge of rule up parallel with Line 1 and touch 
the center dot of first dart on Line 8 and draw center line of first dart from 
Line 7 to Line 9. Take scale, measure to 1 on scale, each side of center dart 



10 

line on Line 9, for width of dart at bottom of waist. Take curved rule, place 
point of dart form on center line of first dart just below Line 7, carry rule 
down to first dot on line 8. Draw curve from Line 7 to Line 8. Draw straight 
line from Line 8 to first dot on Line 9, for front dart line. Turn curved ' rule 
over face down and draw back line of first dart, same as front line. Draw 
second dart, same as first dart. Now take scale, measure out on Line 9 from 
Line 3 to C on scale, for front hip spring. Take under arm line on curved 
rule, place waist line on rule on Line 4 at the intersection of Lines 3 and 4. 
Carry point of rule up to the intersection of Lines 3 and 5 and draw under 
arm line. Place hip form on rule, on line just drawn to Line 4, carry lower 
part of rule down to dot previously made on Line 9, for hip spring and draw 
curved hip form from Line 4 to Line 9. 

Now for bust line. Take scale, measure out on Line 7 from Line 1, 
from C to B on scale and dot. Now measure out on Line 8 from Line 1, 1/% 
of an inch and dot. Now measure out on Line 9 from Line 1 to 1 on scale 
and dot. Take square rule, place point of bust form on Line 1 at front of neck 
and draw bust line from neck line to dot just made on Line 7. 

Turn rule over, face down so it will curve in towards Line 1. Have rule 
touch line just drawn on Line 7, and carry lower part of rule to touch dot on 
Line 8 and draw line from Line 7 to Line 8. Now draw a straight line from 
line just drawn on Line 8, to dot on Line 9, as seen in diagram. 



11 



Directions for Drafting Under-arm Form. 



Continue Lines 4, 5 and 9 across the width of the paper. 

Measure out 5 inches on Line 5 from Line 3 and dot, also on Line 9 and 
dot. Draw Line 10 by dots just made. 

The space left between Lines 3 and 10 is for hip spring and varies ac- 
cording to size. 

Take scale, measure out on Line 5 from Line 10 to B on scale, for width 
of top of under arm form. 

Measure up to 1 on scale above dot just made on Line 5 and dot, for 
height of side form. 

Then measure out on Line 4 from Line 10 to C on scale, and dot, for 
width of side form at waist, also to C on scale on line 9 and draw Line 1 1 by 
dots just made from Line 4 to Line 9. 

Measure out on Line 9 from Line 11, to B on scale, for back hip spring 

Measure out on Line 9 towards the front, from Line 10, from I to 2 on 
scale for front hip spring. 

Take under arm line on curved rule. Turn it face down, placing waist 
line on rule at intersection of Lines 4 and 10. Carry point of rule up to inter- 
section of lines 5 and 10 and draw under arm line from Line 4 to Line 5. Now 
place the hip form of rule on the line just drawn to Line 4. Carry lower part 
of rule down to dot for front hip spring on Line 9 and draw front hip form 
from Line 4 to Line 9. 

Now turn rule face up. Place waist line of rule at intersection of Lines 
4 and 11, carry upper part of rule up to touch dot on Line 5 for width of side 
form. Draw under arm line up from Line 4 to dot made above Line 5, for 
height of side form. Now place hip form of rule on line just drawn on Lines 
4 and 11. Carry lower part of rule down to dot on Line 9, for back hip spring 
and draw hip form from Line 4 to Line 9. 

Draw top of side form with the curve on the rule as seen in diagram. 



12 



Directions for Drafting Side Back Form. 



Draw Lines I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 9 same as for front. 

Take scale, measure in on Line 6 from Line 1, from C to B on scale and 
dot, for width of top of side back form. 

Measure up from Line 5 on Line 1 to 1 on scale and dot, for height of 
form under arm. 

Now measure in on Line 4 from Line 1 to A on scale. Measure from 
the dot just made, along Line 4 to 4 on scale and dot, for width of side back 
form at waist. 

Now measure in on Line 9 from Line 1 to 1 on scale and dot. Measure 
from dot just made along Line 9 from 2 to B on scale and dot, for width of 
side back form at the bottom. 

Now take under arm line on curved rule, turn rule face down. Place 
waist line on rule on the first dot made on Line 4, carry upper part of rule up 
to the dot made on Line 1 above Line 5, for height of form under the arm. 
Draw front line of under arm form from the dot down to Line 4. 

Now place the hip form of rule on the line just drawn, on Line 4, carry 
lower part of rule down to first dot made on Line 9 and draw hip spring of 
side back form, from Line 4 to Line 9. 

Now take curves for back form on square rule. Place figure 2 or 3 on 
dot made on Line 6. Carry lower part of rule down to dot on Line 4, for 
width of form at waist and draw curve for side back form, from Line 6 to Line 
4. Draw straight line from line just drawn on Line 4 to dot on Line 9, for 
width of form at bottom. 

Now draw top of side back form with the curve on the rule, from dot 
on Line 6 to dot on Line 1, as seen in diagram. 



13 



Directions for Drafting Back. 



Measure in on Line 2 from Line 3 to B on scale, and dot, for width of 
back of neck. Now measure down on Line 3 from Line 2, ^ of an inch and 
dot. Now take back neck curve on curved rule, and draw back of neck, from 
dot on Line 2 to dot just made on Line 3. 

Measure in on Line 6 from Line 3 half of width of back measure and 
dot. Now take scale, place lettered end of scale on Line 5, carry it up to 
touch dot just made on Line 6 at width of back, and draw a line up from Line 
5 to D on scale, for height of shoulder. 

Now take shoulder line on curved rule. Place E at width of back of 
neck on Line 2, carry lower part of rule down to height of shoulder at D, and 
draw back shoulder line. 

Now measure length of shoulder on shoulder line and dot, allowing the 
back shoulder y 2 inch longer than the front. 

Now draw arm's eye line, with back arm's eye form on curved rule, by 
placing F on rule on Line 6 at dot made for width of back, carry the upper 
part of rule to touch dot at length of shoulder and draw line from shoulder 
line to Line 6. 

Now take scale, measure in on Line 4 from Line 1, to 1 on scale and 
dot, for back seam, without moving scale, dot at 3, for width of back at waist. 

Now measure -in on Line 9 from Line 3 to C on scale and dot, for width 
of back at bottom. 

Now take square rule, place straight edge of it on Line 3, at back of 
neck, carry lower part of rule down to touch first dot made on Line 4, draw a 
straight line from back of neck to Line 6, turn rule around, place point of bust 
form on line just drawn to Line 6, carry rule down to touch first dot on Line 
4 and continue back line from Line 6 to Line 4, for center back seam. 

Now place straight edge of rule on line just drawn to Line 4, carry rule 
down to the intersection of Lines 3 and 9 and continue back line from Line 4 
to Line 9. 

Now take curves for back form on square rule, place figure 2 or 3 on 
Line 6 at dot, for width of back and back arm's eye, carry lower part 
of rule down to dot on Line 4 for width of back, and draw curve for back 
form from Line 6 to Line 4. Now place straight edge of rule on line just drawn 



14 

to Line 4, carry rule down to dot on Line 9 for width of back at bottom and 
continue line from Line 4 to Line 9. 

To get lower waist lines on back and side back form, measure below 
Line 4 on center back line to 1 on scale, also below Line 4 on back line of 
form to 1 on scale, draw straight lines across from the intersection of Lines 1 
and 4 to the dots just made, as seen on finished diagram. These lower waist 
lines in the back are only used in extreme long waists. 



REMARKS. 



After finishing draft for waist, measure size of bust, length of back, 
width of chest and back, under arm, shoulder and waist, and if you have been 
exact in drafting, the measures will correspond with those taken. Should the 
waist measure of draft be more than the measure calls for, take the difference 
from the under arm seams; if it measures less, add the required amount there. 

For all regular forms I will guarantee a perfect fit without alteration. 

Always trace and cut your lining double. There are no seams allowed 
in drafting. Cut your pattern out by the pencil lines and pin it on your lining. 
Be sure the waist line of the pattern (which is Line 4) runs straight with the 
thread of the goods and allow 2^ inches for hem on front. Take tracing 
wheel and trace the outlines of your pattern, also the waist line, across each 
part of the pattern. Trace the center line of each dart, also the outside lines 
of darts. 

Allow ^i of an inch for seams everywhere except in the neck and arm's 
eye, allow nothing there. 

Cut your lining out before removing the pattern from the goods. 

Follow the traced lines closely in basting, placing the waist line on each 
part directly opposite each other. 

In basting the shoulder seams hold the front a little tight onto the back 
shoulder. 

After learning how to use the system the drafting can always be done 
on the lining which saves much time. In drafting the squares for back, when 
drafting on the lining, allow one inch more than the length of the scale used, 
between Lines 1 and 3 to allow for the seams at the bottom of side back form 
and back. 



15 



Instructions and Measures for Drafting Sleeves. 



To insure a perfect fitting sleeve the measures must be exact and taken 
as follows: 

First bend the arm, placing the hand at the waist. Place the tape line 
at the back of the arm about three inches below point of shoulder, measure 
down to elbow, then to wrist, setting down both measures. This will give the 
exact length of sleeve. The outside measure regulates the length of sleeve 
on the inside line. 

Next measure around the arm's eye at point of shoulder, draw the tape 
line quite snug for this arm's eye measure. 

Next measure around the largest part of arm between shoulder and elbow. 

Next place the tape line around the elbow then bend the elbow to get 
the exact size. 

Then measure the hand over the thumb, because many people's hands 
are larger than their wrists, therefore the sleeve must be large enough for the 
hand to pass through. 



16 



Diagram No. 3. 



&vz» **>***• 




SLEEVE MEASURES. 



Length from shoulder to elbow 12 
From elbow to wrist 10 

Arm's eye - - - - 15 



Largest part of arm 
Elbow- 
Wrist 



n 

10 
8 



17 

Directions for Drafting Sleeves. 



Please read the directions on the sleeve form carefully. The form rep- 
resents both upper and under parts of sleeve. As you can see, the perforations 
enable you to draft any sized sleeve your measure calls for. 

The three lines of figures, from 9 to 13, at the top of the form running 
lengthwise on the inside line, the center line and the outside line give you the 
length from the shoulder to the elbow. 

The figures on the inside line at the bottom of form give the length 
from elbow to wrist. The numbers around the top of the form give the size 
of arm's eye for both upper and under. 

The next the largest part of arm. 

The next size of elbow. 

Across the bottom of the form, the wrist. 

Always draft the under part of sleeve first as that gives the correct 
length of back seam. 

Place the sleeve form on the paper or lining, see that the center line 
above the elbow runs with the thread of the goods, the inside line of the form 
next to you. 

Draw the inside line of sleeve from the number above on the inside 
line, which gives the length from shoulder to the elbow which is the first 
measure taken. Draw the line down along the inside line of the form to the 
number below on the line which gives the length from the elbow to the wrist 
which is the second measure. This gives you the full length of sleeve required. 

Now without removing the form and being very careful not to let it slip, 
come up on center line to the number which gives the length from shoulder 
to elbow again, for the length on back line of sleeve, then come down from 
the number which gives the size of arm's eye at top of form, down the line of 
perforated holes till you reach the line of holes directly opposite the length, 
and dot, this gives the size of arm's eye and length of sleeve above. Then dot 
at the number indicating the size of largest part of arm. 

Also at number indicating the size of elbow. 

Also at the number indicating size of wrist, in the line of holes, directly 
opposite the length of sleeve on the inside line. 



18 

Remove the form. Draw the back line of sleeve by the back of sleeve 
form, placing the elbow of form at the elbow dot, and drawing the line up to 
the dot just made above for size and length, also from the elbow down to the 
dot below, for full length. 

Draw the curve at the top by reversing the form and placing figure 12 
of the top form, on the inside line and draw curve to the outside line, which 
finishes the under part of sleeve. 

To draft the upper half of sleeve, place the form on the goods the same 
as before. 

Draw the inside line same as before to the length required. 

Draw the back line same as before, only using the figures on the back 
line of form, to get the length and size of arm's eye, dot same as before. Now 
to get the size of the arm, elbow and hand, use the numbers indicating size 
your measure calls for, between center line and back line. Draft the back line 
of the upper, by placing form same as before. 

Draft the first half of top curve from the inside line by placing the form 
along the inside line, with the top point of form touching the upper end of 
line, and draw from the line up to the number indicating size of arm's eye, and 
stop. Then reverse the form, turning the face down, place the highest round 
of form touching the curve just drawn, and continue the line on around to the 
back line. 

Allow y 2 inch seams on both upper and under parts of sleeve, as no 
seams are allowed when the measure is taken. 



19 



20 



Directions for Drafting Waist yjitY] tl^ree darts. 



This waist is used only for large ladies, those measuring 40 or more 
around the bust. 



Diagram No. 4. 




Tlvr e e "D ar t s ax e 

use&iox large 

ladies only. 



21 



This draft is made according to the measures taken, the same as the 
instructions given for drafting 2nd diagram. The only difference being made 
in the placing of the darts. 

To get the proper proportions for three darts, measure in on Line 8 
from Line I, from 5 to D on scale, and dot, for front line of first dart. Now 
measure from dot just made, from 5 to D again and dot, for width of first dart. 
Then to 1 on scale, from dot just made and dot, for space between darts, meas- 
ure same distance for second and third darts as you did for first, as seen in 
diagram. Draw center lines of darts same as in second. 

Draft the side forms and back to use with this front, same as for regular 
waist, as seen in second diagram. 

By the use of three darts, the seams are so placed as to give a large 
form a much more slender appearance, giving abundant fullness over the bust 
and doing away with all wrinkles over the hips; it is much preferable to the 
extra under arm form generally used, and has given entire satisfaction. 



22 



Directions for drafting French Bias. 



The object of the French bias is to throw fullness enough into the sec- 
ond dart to make the goods bias under the arm, as it sets to the figure much 
more readily than when cut straight and consequently makes a prettier fit. 

Diagram No. 5. 







23 



Make the draft same as the second draft with the exception of the sec- 
ond dart, arm's eye and hip spring. 

To get the second dart, hip spring and arm's eye, look at the propor- 
tions given in the accompanying diagram, bearing in mind that all the dis- 
tances are given by the letters and figures on the scale used, indicating the 
size of bust. 

Always measure up the size of waist before drawing the under arm line, 
and add to or take from the size as the case may require. 

The proportions given will fit all regular forms. 

Use the side forms and back with this front, same as for regular waist, 
as seen in the second diagram. 



24: 



Instructions for drafting Princess or Polonaise front. 



Draft the same as the direction given for second diagram, with the ex- 
ception of the dart. 

Diagram No. 6. 




25 



To get one dart as seen in diagram, measure in on Line 7 from Line 
I to 5 on scale. Also on Line 8 to 5 on scale and dot for center dart line. 
Draw center line of dart by dots just made from Line 7 to Line 9. 

For width of dart, measure out each side of center line of dart, on Line 8, 
from 5 to D, on scale and dot. Also to 1 on scale, each side of center line, on 
Line 9, and dot for width of dart at bottom. Draft dart by the dots made, 
same as in the directions given for second diagram. 

To get under arm dart, measure out on Line 5 from Line 3, to A on 
scale, and dot. Also on Line 4 from Line 3 to B, on scale, and dot. Also on 
Line 9 to B on scale, and dot. Draw line 10 by the dots just made, from Line 
4 to Line 9. 

Now measure out from Line 3, from 1 to 2 on scale, about 6 inches be- 
low Line 4, and dot, for lower point of under arm dart. 

Take under arm line on curved rule, and draw the dart by the dots 
made, as seen in diagram. 

For the width of under arm form, from the dart just made, measure the 
distances as marked in diagram, and draw same as under arm form in second 
diagram. 



26 



Directions for Drafting Misses Waist. 



Misses waist, should be drafted with one dart and the French back, 
under arm form being used. 



no 



Diagram No 7. 



JLine £ 



Line 2 



a— 




Get the lines and curves according to your measures, same as second 
diagram. To draw the dart, measure in on Line 7, from Line 1 to 5 on scale 
and dot. Also on Line 9, from Line I to 5 on scale, and dot. Draw straight 
line by the dots just made from Line 7 to Line 9, for center dart line. Meas- 
ure out each way from center dart line on Line 8, to 1 on scale, and dot for 
the width of dart on waist line. 

Place 3 on scale, on center dart line on Line 9, and dot at 2 and 4, for 
width of dart at bottom. Take dart form and draw dart by dots made. 

To place under arm line, take scale measure out on Line 4, from Line 3, 
to 1 on scale, and dot, for size of waist. 

Take under arm line on curved rule. Place waist line on rule on dot 
just made on Line 4, and draw under arm line up to the intersection of Lines 

5 and 3- 

Take scale, measure out on Line 9, from Line 3 to C on scale, and dot 

for hip spring. 

Place hip form on line just drawn to Line 4, and draw line down to dot 
just made on Line 9 for hip spring. 

Get the first six lines for the back, same as for the front, according to 
your measures. 

Take scale, measure in on Line 2, from Line 3 to B on scale, for width 
of back of neck. Draw curve by back neck form on curved rule, from the dot 
on Line 2 to Line 3. 

Measure in on Line 6 from Line 3, one-half the width of the back- 
measure, and dot. Place the figured end of scale on Line 5, carrying it up to 
touch dot just made on Line 6, and draw Line up to D, for height of back 
shoulder. 

Draw shoulder line from shoulder point of back of neck, on Line 2, to 
dot just made at D. 

Measure length of shoulder on the line just drawn. 

To draw back arm's eye, place F on curved rule on Line 6, at dot for 
width of back, and draw the line up to the length of shoulder on shoulder line, 
for upper half of back arm's eye. 

Now without removing the rule, turn it, still keeping F on line 6, so the 
lower part of rule will touch the intersection of Lines 1 and 5. And draw the 
lower half of back arm's eye, as seen in diagram. 



28 

Measure from C to B on curved line just drawn below Line 6, and dot, 
for width of side back form at top. 

Now measure in on Line 4, from Line 1, from 1 to 2 on scale, and dot. 
Measure from dot just made on Line 4, to 5 on scale, for width of side back 
form at waist. 

Now measure in on Line 9, from Line 1, from 1 to C on scale, and dot. 

Now measure out on Line 9, from Line 1, from 1 to 2 on scale, and dot, 
for width of side back form at bottom. 

Now take under arm line on curved rule, turn it face down. Place 
waist line on rule on the first dot on Line 4, carry upper part of rule up to the 
intersection of lines 1 and 5, and draw under arm line from Line 5 to Line 4. 
Place hip form on line just drawn to Line 4, and continue line down to dot 
made out on Line 9, for hip spring. * 

Place figure 3, of curves for back form, on square rule on dot made on 
lower half of back arm's eye, for width of side form, carry lower part of rule 
down to second dot on Line 4, for width of side form at waist, and draw curve 
for back form, from the dot to Line 4. Now continue with straight line from 
the line just drawn to Line 4, to the dot on Line 9, for width of side back form 
at bottom. 

Now measure in on Line 4, from Line 3, to I on scale, and dot, for 
center back seam. Now measure from dot just 'made to C on scale, for width 
of back at waist, and dot. 

Now measure in on Line 9, from Line 3 to D on scale, and dot, for 
width of back at bottom. 

Now place straight edge of square rule on Line 3, at back of neck, and 
draw a straight line down from back of neck to first dot from Line 3, on Line 
4, for center back seam. Now continue a line from line just drawn to Line 4 
out to intersection of Lines 3 and 9. 

Now take curves for side back form. Place figure 3 same as for draw- 
ing side back form, carry rule down to dot on Line 4, for width of back, and 
draw back form from arm's eye to Line 4. Continue a straight line on from 
the line just drawn down to dot made on Line 9, for width of back at bottom 
of waist. 

In cutting for Children, always allow inch seams under the arm, so the 
garment can be made larger at the waist if required. 



29 

For Children or Misses whose forms have not developed, make straight 
fronts, and allow for hem on front or back, as desired. If the waist measure 
is as large as the bust measure, there are no darts required. 



30 



Diagram No. 8. 




31 



Drafted just the same as a Misses waist, omitting the dart. 

In drafting for small Children, whose waist measure is usually larger 
than the bust measure, allow from one-half to one inch outside of Line I on 
Line 9, as seen by dotted line on diagram. 

This draft can be used for Children's aprons or night dresses, by allow- 
ing a little more outside of Line 1, and on the under arm seams, and drafting 
it down below Line 9 the required length. 



32 



Directions for Drafting SKirt. 



The diagram represents half of the front width, the side gore and half 
of the back width of plain gored skirt. 



Diagram No. 9. 




33 



The front is always cut double. The first or front line represents the 
fold of the goods. The proportions given are for a medium sized skirt, where 
the hips would measure from 38 to 42 inches around. 

The front and side gores ought to be cut the size of the hip measure, 
less 7 or eight inches, which space is taken up by the reeds in the back width 
of skirt. 

The back width of skirt should always be cut three inches longer than 
the front measure, when reeds or bustles are to be worn. 

Measure in five inches from the double edge of the goods, for the width 
of the front at the top, and dot. Measure across, seven inches down from the 
top, seven inches, for size around hips, and dot. 

Then measure down from the top the length of the skirt in front, and 
dot. Measure across, ten inches from dot just made for width of front at 
bottom. Draw the lines as seen in the diagram by the dots made, and shape 
the skirt at bottom and top as is shown by the dotted lines on each piece in 
the diagram. 

Draft the side gore 11 inches wide at the top, measure down the length 
required, and 16 inches across the bottom, draw a straight line from one 
dot to the other, shape it off both bottom and top as seen by dotted lines on 
diagram. 

The back breadth should be 15 or 16 inches wide on the double, slope 
the back 1 inch at the bottom, and 2 inches at the top from the sides toward 
the center. 

The reeds are put in according to taste. The dimensions given make 
a beautiful setting bustle. 

The width of medium skirt around the bottom, should be from 2% to 
2y 2 yards wide. 

Skirts must be cut larger or smaller, according to the sized person you 
are cutting for. 



34 



Observations for Cutting Goods. 



The nap on all goods should run toward the bottom line of the gar- 
ment, excepting in plush and velvet. 

Goods having no nap, may be cut double, saving time and material. 

Particular care should be observed in cutting plaid goods, as the plaids 
should be carefully matched in both waist and skirt. As nothing spoils the 
appearance of a waist so much as a missmatched plaid. 



RerriarKs. 



By the proper use of the Worth-Taylor System, we do away with 
fitting on all regular forms. If the measures are properly taken, the diagrams 
will show you how to draft all styles of waists if the instructions are carefully 
followed. 



35 



One Worth Tailor Systerq, with Instructions and Book - $10 25 

One Worth Tailor Systerr), with Book, without personal Instructions - 3 25 

One Dozen Worth Systems - 27 00 

Half Dozen Worth Systems - - - 15 00 

Measure Blocks, eacr] ---.___ 20 

Measure Blocks, by the dozen - - - - - 2 00 

Tracing Wheel, single ------- 25 

Tracing Wheel, double ______ 50 

One Dozeq Single Wheels - - - - - - 2 00 

One Dozen Double Wheels ------ 4 00 

Sleeve Form, alone - - - - - - - I 00 



All letters of inquiry must be accompanied with a stamp. 

N. B. I take pleasure in announcing that I have opened a Purchasing 
Agency, for the convenience of ladies out of the city. Commissions solicited 
and samples and prices sent on application. All orders promptly attended to. 
Directions for taking measures sent with the samples, and goods made 
up if desired in the latest Parisian styles, in our Dress Making Parlors, No. 
2202 Michigan Avenue. Satisfaction guaranteed. 

Yours respectfully, 

Madame Walkie. 
No. 127 East 22d St., Chicago, 111. 

Agents wanted. Liberal terms offered. 



- 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 957 6 



AGENTS WANTED 



por every Qity apd Jovup ip t^e 



iJpit^d States apd Qapada. 



Competent Agents Can Make from 



-^^^$50 to $100 per week ^402^ 



TRACING WHEELS ARE INDISPENSABLE 

For marking linings evenly and insuring correct work, as the marks of the wheels 
show through plainly on the double lining and can be seen on both sides. 



/Address all letters aijd orders to 



y^^y//j{\rf--c/ct?n-(> / " tfc'C-e,; 



No. 127 East 22d St., 



CHICAGO, ILL. 



Conservation Resoorces 
Ug-Free* Type I 
Ph %St Buffered 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 957 6 



